When I began reading about Budapest in preparation for my travels, I came upon its proud title as the "Paris of the East". The implication of this title goes much deeper than the image recalled at face value, and I learned quickly that the most important words to consider are "of the east." Budapest has a very rich history, beginning from the joining of the cities Buda and Pest, and continuing through the chaos and terror of successive occupations by the Nazi and Communist parties in the 20th century. In understanding the difficult times that have scarred the Hungarian people, I was able to better understand their attitude towards tourists and foreigners. Unfortunately, until the end of my adventures in Hungary, I was more or less unaware of such critical events and was more convinced that I should find a modernized "Paris" like the one I know and love.
Instead, I found myself in a city (in many cases) laden with hostility towards non-hungarians, or a keen sense of how to cheat such foreigners. I am aware of the danger one poses to oneself when traveling as a tourist, especially one not speaking the local language, but to be consistently stiffed change when paying for something, or to have prices manipulated in front of ones eyes by someone only after the fact claiming not to speak english, was all a bit too much for me to handle. I reached the point where I had no desire to spend any money for fear that I would be ripped-off, which is unfortunate for all parties involved; I did not experience as much of the food as I had desired, and the Hungarian state did not profit from my touristy spending as much as it could have. The Hungarian form of currency is the Florint; 500HF is approximately 2 euros. In doing the math, there are a great number of zeros, and not being accustomed to dealing in such high numbers, many Euro-and Dollar-dispensing tourists are easily taken advantage of. I suppose all my complaining sounds bizarre when you consider that for one week's time (filled with a comedy of errors and unforeseen late-night excursions to retrieve personal affects), I spent 70 euros in total. I only wish I could have spent it on items of my choice and not those things which happened "par hasard" and had to be accommodated.
For all the chaos that ensued during my journey in Budapest, and all the hard feelings that remain imprinted on my memory, there is a great number of things that stand out as extraordinary and, without a doubt, worthwhile. One of them is the outstanding architecture and extravagant use of art nouveau discernible at the turn of each corner. The city is in an unmistakeable stage of recovery, having only recently emerged from behind the Iron Curtain, and the process of its facelift is easily noticeable by way of countless scaffoldings buffering glimmering, newly-restored facades and crumbling remnants of the Old World. 
Another unmatched facet of this city's allure is its collection of nature hot-spring baths. First made marketable by the Ancient Romans (of course), these baths uphold their glamorous legacy by exhibiting decadent displays of architectural and artistic achievement throughout the ages. While many of the baths that remain in use were built at the turn of the century, and have since been restored, one cannot help but feel in a world apart upon entering the waters. The largest collection of public baths (and subsequently the ones I chose for the experience) is located at the Szechenyi bath house. The experience is like none other, and quite possibly, in itself, turned my trip into a gratifying one. The outdoor baths consistantly hold a temperature between 26-38 degrees celcius (80-100 degrees fareignheit), depending on the pool, and include a whirlpool, underwater jets, fountains, and, strangely enough, a few chess boards. The most impressive and memorable aspects of this unique spa came for me at night when the air temperature formed my dripping hair into a series of tiny icicles melting ever so slowly above the rising heat. There is no shortage of amorous young lovers in this sanctuary of rising steam, and I took great pleasure in watching different scenes appearing and disappearing with the ever-changing movement of the fog.
A definite advantage to traveling Europe during the Holiday season is the never-ending array of Christmas Markets that one has to enjoy along the way. Budapest was no exception, and the entire atmosphere, with a little help perhaps from the Gluwein (Mulled wine), did a great deal to warm my frozen core, and even thaw my spirits. I vowed to myself to return when I have the money to throw at expensive artisanal crafts, precisely to purchase the most fabulous (as well as humorous) fur hat I have ever come across in my travels.
While I may not have had the chance to experience all the savory flavors that Hungary has to offer in its cuisine, I did treat myself to some specialties at the Christmas market and elsewhere. Polenta with cottage cheese was most definitely an interesting choice, and not necessarily one I would choose to repeat, while Hungarian goulash is a must-have. The most delicious item to tease my taste buds, however, was a doughy dessert called kurtöskalác. It seemed to me to be a sort of sweet dough wrapped around a form, glazed with butter, and heated over a coal fire. It can be served plain, as well as with cinnamon, sugar, or nuts as toppings. It was heavenly and left me with a serious craving for much of the rest of the trip. Honestly, I believe I avoided the Christmas market after that night for fear that I would spend my remaining florint on said sugary goodness.
All photos taken from flickr.com in lieu of my own due to loss of camera.
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